Have a screened in deck and for each of the 6 areas where a blind is needed, would require a custom fit costing $$$$. I did search long and hard for an option for these outdoor spaces that I could fit at home or cut, but to no avail. We previously had these vinyl/PVC roll-up blinds from Home Depot installed for at least 20 years (old-fashioned cording), which we cut to fit then, but some of the cording finally gave way. When I could not find anything else, I went back to what we knew with these, although in white (previous was tan). Nothing on internet could be found on how to cut these type of roll-ups, but I knew they could be since we had previously (however, we did a much more careful and successful job with lessons learned from the originals (CUTTING TIPS FOLLOW!). As one reviewer said, they're so inexpensive, it was worth a shot, although you need to realize it would void any warranty (of course). New "No cord design" for safety - I totally understand and agree with the safety design, but just not sure how long the "thicker threads" of the blinds will sustain the weight of the rolled-up portion of the blind - we'll see. And it's kind of a pain to roll-up and be sure they're even - I doubt I'll be rolling up or down frequently because of this new and improved safety design. ORDERING NOTE: It was disappointing that the "original" Seller I ordered from only allowed me to purchase 4 of the 6 blinds needed with my order; I had to search and place 2 separate orders with other sellers for the 2 other blinds I needed. But it worked out fine. HOW TO CUT: I ordered 6, 48" wide blinds and every one had to be cut smaller, either on one or both sides. Follow standard measuring guidelines before cutting (measure top to bottom width and cut to the smaller width measurement). Two Important measurement points: 1. Measure your window width (shortest max) and determine where it would fall on the blind taking into consideration where the threads and slats would be cut. There is a 1", 2" pattern in the slat threads; you will want to cut where you have the maximum slat left from a thread after cutting (e.g. you don't want to cut so close to a thread that the slat will be in danger of falling out). NEVER cut so much off that a MAJOR thread would be removed (this MAJOR (thick) thread is the anchor for the cordless hooks by design). 2. IMPORTANT that you also consider where the top hooks in the header fall in your calculations BEFORE cutting. Tools used to cut: -Tape measure -Marker/pen -Painters tape -Hand saw (for cutting top and bottom "rails") -Sharp scissors (I used wallpaper scissors) HOW TO: After taking my measurements for each "window", I unrolled and laid out the blind on the deck floor. I used the space between the deck boarding to help with alignment of the threads and slats, and ultimately as a guide for the hand saw and wallpaper scissors. Given your blind's width and header hooks, determine where best to mark your cuts. Once I knew where I wanted to cut and did my alignment, I used painters tape on the slats to hold them in place while cutting (very helpful, and I don't think I'd cut unless I did this step). I used the hand saw to cut the footer rail, wallpaper scissors to cut the slats (using the painters tape as a guide), and then the hand saw again to cut the header rail. Timely process, but overall very easy and cheap, and I'm very pleased with the results . Oh, and although I've always been a DIY woman, I'm not willing to share my age, but I promise you that if I can do it, you can. Your only risk is losing ~$15 bucks if you test one blind first; unless you have an injury from the hand saw and scissors (hopefully, not!)
